Auction Highlights: January 16, 2024

Cartier "Jumbo" Tank Louis, Pair of Rolex 1675 GMT Masters, Glycine Airman, Universal Geneve Cairelli, Movado Triple Calendar "21 Club"

We are in the off-season and this week was particularly slow (only 6 highlights), but with some quality watches.

AH24011601: Cartier Tank Louis Ref 17002 - Wonderful example of an 18KYG “Jumbo” tank from the late 1970’s. Tank Louis’s (Louis is for Louis-Joseph Cartier b. 1875, designer of the original Tank) are usually sized in the 23-25mm W x 30-33mm H range, until they grew much bigger in 2000’s. However during the 1970s, Cartier produced a small batch (several hundred at best) of the larger 28mm x 34mm “Jumbo” version. These Jumbos are also rare in that they have a raised, circular caseback that houses a thick automatic ETA movement. I asked the auctioneer to check the dial with a loupe, and they replied that there were no hairlines and cracks in the dial. Case has some scratches but overall very good condition.

AH24011602: Rolex GMT Master 1675 “Long "E” Dial - The auctioneer (who never answers questions or requests for more photos) claims that this is a one-owner watch. Serial not provided but dated to 1970, so probably 2.5M or thereabouts, which is within the range of a Long E. Hands replaced. Lighting is too strong and I am unable to assess condition of case, but I see some serious dings on the upper left lug and scratches throughout. Bracelet (no information provided on code) is stretchy but seems to still have some life in it. Dial and faded bezel on the other hand are in fantastic condition. With RSC card.

AH24011603: Glycine Airman “Special” - The Airman was first produced in the mid-1950’s as a niche watch for pilots with a convenient 24-hour display. After going through several iterations, its popularity surged during the Vietnam War, where it was available for purchase by US soldiers at the PX. This example is from the mid 1960’s and is in overall very good condition with lume intact and patinated to a pleasing yellow color. Case appears unpolished. Along with Seiko diver and chronograph watches, the Glycine Airman’s “association with the Vietnam War and its popularity among American GIs highlight its significance as a tool and symbol during a pivotal era.” (Thanks to ChatGPT for the last line)

AH24011604: Rolex GMT Master 1675 “Long E” Dial - Of the 2 1675’s in this week’s highlights this is the better one. Serial not provided but seller claims 1969/1970, and if so Long E is correct. Original everything, look at that FAT font bezel! Case is not the sharpest and has scratches throughout, but in honest condition. No bracelet slump test but just observing it in a flat position, the correct 7836/280 looks to still be usable. A gem.

AH24011605: Universal Geneve CP-2 M.M - I wrote about the Zenith CP-2 flyback chronographs issued to the Italian Airforce in the 1960’s before, see here. This is the much rarer Univeral Geneve branded version of the same watch. Phillips sold one of these back in 2016 with serial number 200718 and accompanied by the original delivery slip. This example’s caseback is engraved with “AMI CRONOMETRO TIPO CP-2 MM 200844”, indicating it was issued. Overall good condition, but sweep is missing lume and stem pulls out, both rectifiable by a competent watchmaker. Monaco Legend Group sold one with wrong crown last year, see here. Also see here for a nice article on A Cairelli.

AH24011606: Movado Ref 44823 - As I wrote before, the combination of Breguet numerals and 14k yellow gold seems to have been favored in the US market. But more than that, what makes this Movado Triple Calendar interesting is the engraving on the caseback, which reads: “To Gus Lux from Jack & Charlies 21 1927-1947.” The 21 Club (aka Jack & Charlies 21) was a traditional American cuisine restaurant located on West 52nd Street in New York City (also see here). It was a formerly prohibition-era speakeasy that was frequented by celebrities, artists, writers and Presidents for 90 years until its closure in 2020. Interestingly, 21 Club is now owned by Belmond Ltd., which is a subsidiary of LVMH, so it will be interesting to see if/how they revive it. The watch itself is without much need for reviving or refurbishment save the bent seconds hand. Overall very good condition. However lighting is too strong to assess whether dial has been refinished or not. There are many dial variations of the ref 44823. I’m always suspicious of this dial version because the inner circle cuts through both calendar openings. However I see many of these, so it could be original and have to do with the index size and scale spacing.